Squirrel fish

01 / ABOUT THE DISH

About the dish

Sōngshǔ guìyú is a Jiangsu dish made from mandarin fish that is carefully cut, fried, and coated in a sweet and sour sauce, special because its precise preparation makes the flesh fan out like a squirrel’s tail while keeping a crisp texture and delicate flavor. Originating in Suzhou, it reflects the refined artistry of Jiangsu cuisine, where attention to knife skills, balance of taste, and visual presentation has long been valued. The dish became well known during the Qing dynasty, when Suzhou’s culinary culture emphasized both elegance and technical skill, and it soon became a highlight of banquets and formal gatherings. The preparation begins by cleaning the mandarin fish, leaving the head and tail intact while crosshatching the flesh so that it opens up when fried. After coating with starch, the fish is deep-fried until golden, puffed, and crisp, then served with a glossy sauce made from vinegar, sugar, soy sauce, and tomato paste or ketchup. This combination produces a dish that is visually striking and texturally balanced, with the crisp surface absorbing the tangy and sweet sauce. Today, it remains a centerpiece in Suzhou and across Jiangsu, often served at banquets, festivals, and family celebrations. It is eaten communally, shared at the center of the table, and continues to represent both the delicacy of freshwater fish and the craftsmanship of Jiangsu’s culinary heritage.