Persians

01 / ABOUT THE DISH

About the dish

A Persian is a fried sweet roll from Thunder Bay, Ontario, made from soft yeast dough with a cinnamon swirl and topped with a thick layer of bright pink, berry-flavored icing. Although it resembles a cinnamon roll, frying gives it a slightly crisp exterior and a soft, airy interior. Baker Art Bennett created the pastry at Bennett’s Bakery in Port Arthur, one of the two cities that merged in 1970 to form Thunder Bay. It dates to the mid-1940s, although the exact year of its creation is uncertain. According to local lore, Bennett named the pastry after American general John J. Pershing, known as “Black Jack” Pershing. The precise circumstances behind the name have never been firmly established, but the story has become part of the pastry’s history in Thunder Bay. Persians are made from a rich yeast dough containing ingredients such as eggs and milk. The dough is rolled out, sprinkled with cinnamon, rolled into a log, and cut into individual pieces. Instead of being baked like a conventional cinnamon roll, the pieces are deep-fried until golden brown. Once cooled, they are covered with the characteristic pink icing. The original Bennett’s Bakery recipe remains secret, especially the icing formula. It is known to be berry-based, and its pink color comes from fruit rather than added food coloring, but the bakery does not disclose exactly which berries are used. This has sparked a long-running local debate over whether the flavor comes from raspberries, strawberries, or a mix of fruits. Persians are usually eaten at room temperature, but a well-known Thunder Bay variation is the toasted Persian. The roll is sliced horizontally, buttered, and fried or toasted cut-side down until the interior becomes golden and lightly caramelized. Icing is then added before serving. This method was once common in local restaurants and is still popular at home. The Persian has become one of Thunder Bay’s best-known local foods. Several bakeries around the city sell it, although Bennett’s original version is still associated with The Persian Man, whose owners acquired Bennett’s Bakery in the 1960s. Persians are commonly eaten for breakfast or as a snack with coffee, and they are also popular at community events and fundraisers. Former residents and visitors often take boxes home, making the pink-frosted roll a culinary symbol of Thunder Bay.